The most spectacular pieces from Paris Haute Couture week
Reading Time:
1 min {{readingTime}} mins
The most important week in fine jewellery is Paris Haute Couture week, where - at the beginning of July - all of the biggest jewellery maisons showcase their latest collections. In this article, we’ll show you some of the most spectacular designs from Cartier, Chanel, Dior, Chaumet and Louis Vuitton writes Jodie Smith.
Cartier’s ‘Magnitude’ collection is full of briolettes, angular motifs, amd appendages emulating rays of light and explosions of colour.
In this line, the brand has chosen to play with the contrast between a host of different types of materials; gems, minerals and precious stones.
The ‘Theia’ necklace is a combination of emeralds, rock crystal and onyx with hints of art deco architectural design, as well as the futuristic overtones which the transparent elements provide.
The new ‘Les Ciels de Chaumet’ collection pays tribute to the arts; with fine jewellery odes to the twirling suns of Van Gogh, birds on Japanese prints, to the dynamic skies of Turne - for all of which the sky has been the inspiration. The maison reinterprets stars, shining suns, crescent moons and planets, as well as birds in diamonds and gemstones. While ‘Les Fulgurances du Ciel’ evokes the stars’ nighttime journey, ‘Les Couleurs du Ciel’ is the manifestation of a sun radiant with light. The clouds are captured in ‘Les Caprices du Ciel,’ while the ‘Les Habitants du Ciel’ selection features representations of birds. The showpieces which featured on the instagram of every jewellery editor and journalist were the diamond embellished ‘Etoile Etoile’ and the ‘Soliel Glorieux’ diadem - with a 2.51 carat fancy yellow diamond at its centre, accented with rock crystal and diamonds. The inclusion of these tiaras in the collection stays faithful to the brand’s heritage of creating amazing, royalty worthy headwear.
When asked about her 20th anniversary collection ‘Gem Dior,’ Victoire de Castellane said, “it’s as if I had put all my collections from the past twenty years into a shaker and what popped out were freeze-frames and very large pixelised close-ups [...] in the end, what’s left is material and colour.” This is the most extensive collection in the history of Dior Joaillerie, with 99 different pieces ranging from watches, rings, bracelets to earrings, and even palm bracelets. The abstract, geometrical jewels are combinations of bright gems in different cuts, and it was especially the pendulous ‘Gem Dior’ drop earrings which made waves. Several variations of gemstone and colour combinations were displayed to their fullest in these designs.
Having recently joined Louis Vuitton as Creative Director of jewellery, Francesca Amfitheatrof introduced her debut collection ‘Riders of the Knights’. Pulling from a very specific inspiration of medieval codes, including chivalry and heraldic crests, the house created ‘Le Royaume’ necklace. The grid-like architecture borrows very literally from design components of a medieval fortresses - such as a portcullis, chains, and a drawbridge.
Chanel’s 'Le Paris Russe de Chanel' high jewellery line consists of 69 pieces divided into 11 smaller collections - each of which is dedicated to a Russian inspired theme: embroidery, kokoshniki, folklore, Russian shirts, sundresses or imperial symbols. The 'Sarafane' necklaces and diadem - one of which was transformable - the ‘Sarafane’ headpiece known as kokoshnik could be worn as a necklace too. The restrained palette of diamonds, pearls and white gold signalled a regal atmosphere around these pieces.
About the Contributing Writer
Jodie Smith is a writer, journalist and editor specialising in fine jewellery and the luxury industry. Jodie is interested in the cultural nuances that inform the jewellery we wear and the jewellery we covet. As a keen creative writer, her interests in literature and politics shape her picturesque writing style.
Author:
Published:
