Nikki Couppee - A pop and gothic flavor
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This week we discover the work of a real experimenter in jewelry field, the American jewelry designer Nikki Couppee writes Ilaria Ruggiero.
Originally from Pensacola Beach, Florida, she is currently living in Oakland, California.
Her work is located in a very special stylistic dimension, between pop culture and gothic flavor, in a mix of very different languages and codes.
I addressed her few questions to better understand her world.
IR: Where does your passion for jewelry come from?
NC: Growing up I used to look in my mom’s jewelry box and inspected and tried things on and loved hearing the stories, place, and date, associated with each piece and how that made the pieces more special to me. She passed the love of jewelry on to me by giving me a piece of jewelry either new or from her collection to mark the milestones and achievements in my life.
I like making jewelry objects that are reflections of what is going on in my life. I enjoy using found materials and resins in combination with synthetic and glow in the dark pigments. I try to keep my work fresh and interesting to me by working in new materials and the challenges of the making process and having a wearable piece.
IR: Have you made any professional studies?
NC: I started taking metals classes at the local junior college, Pensacola Junior College, with professor Douglas Resier when I was in high school till graduating with an A.A., 2003. I continued studies at the University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia receiving a B.F.A. in Jewelry/ Metals with Rob Jackson and Mary Halam Pearse, 2007, and a M.F.A. in Jewelry/Metals at Kent State University, Kent, Ohio with Kathleen Browne, 2011.
IR: Tell us something about your esthetic and technique: how do you usually work and what the making process is made of?
NC: I have a rough idea in my mind of something I would like to wear and then work intuitively with the materials letting them shape and move some of the outcome and making sure it is comfortable to me. When choosing materials I am inspired mainly by color, sparkle/shine, the beach back home and life here in Oakland/ SF, fashion magazine, music, memories and toys from childhood- it all comes out in the work. I hand facet and polish plexi sheets to make my own version of gemstones and I use shells from home and found, plastic flowers, synthetic materials and glow in the dark pigments with resin to create work. I have a lot of half cut out pieces of plexi sheet and faceted plastic gems laying around my bench and grab from different piles, cut old pieces apart, and move things around till I am satisfied.
IR: What is your main idea behind jewelry?
NC: Jewelry has served and continues today to serve several important functions in society. Objects of personal adornment have the ability to define a person’s social statues, serve as a redeemable investment and perform on a psychological level. The intrinsic value of the materials used in jewelry making has always been a reflection of an individual’s or family’s wealth. In my work, I seek to create opulent jewelry that is reminiscent of royal jewelry but made using my own version of gemstones from common, non-precious materials instead of precious stones and metals. Through labor-intensive processes, Plexiglas, brass, synthetic materials, resin, and found objects are employed to create industrial counterfeits or stand-ins for gemstones and gold. Holograms and faux silver and gold foil are used underneath the stones to add luster, referencing paste diamonds and rhinestones. I hand fabricate settings to further reference the language of fine jewelry, with the intention of elevating the work. With the use of these everyday materials, I am able to exaggerate the size and abundance of gemstones to parody or poke fun at the class issues inherent in fine jewelry.
Occasionally feeling homesick I make works reminiscent of the Florida beaches where I grew up. I choose materials like synthetic fishing ties, holograms, fake plastic flowers, neon glow-in-the-dark bits, and plastic sugar sprinkles, all in a color palette that reflects my memories of a time and place. These floral brooches are both unapologetically sentimental and humorous, with a nod to Victoriana and tourist kitsch.
IR: Is your research expanding from jewelry to other media? If yes how do you feel about it?
NC: My work is expanding with different materials and right now I feel I have more to say with this particular theme. I have recently had the opportunity to work with the Australian fashion duo, Romance was Born, and make earrings for their show ‘Kinda Couture’ during Paris Fashion week. That was an amazing experience and I would like to have more opportunities to see my work in that realm and being involved with a bunch of different creative people .
About the Contributing Writer
Ilaria Ruggiero is a cultural manager and curator working in the field of contemporary art. She is the founder of Adornment - Curating Contemporary Art Jewelry, a curatorial integrated project dedicated to contemporary art jewelry. It aims to develop the knowledge and consciousness of contemporary jewelry as artistic discipline and as ground search for technique, aesthetics, and philosophy.
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