Danni Schwaag: A long search for pearl
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Nacre also known as mother of pearl, is an organic-inorganic composite material produced by some molluscs as an inner shell layer; it also makes up the outer coating of pearls writes Ilaria Ruggiero.
Nacre also known as mother of pearl, is an organic-inorganic composite material produced by some molluscs as an inner shell layer; it also makes up the outer coating of pearls.
It is strong, resilient, and iridescent.
Danni Schwaag’s obsession for mother of pearl started during her studies in Idar-Oberstein, when she was looking for a pearl necklace – not a classical one. She wanted to do one on her own, being fascinated by the variety of the material, its luster, the sensitivity and brittleness.
Visiting all the gemstone shops in Idar-Oberstein she found a beautiful shell, “Pinctada Maxima”, from which she developed a pearl necklace, a chain made out of many oval rings cutting out of the material.
In her research, since then, she is working her way through the material.
She was able to reinvent and reinterpret an ancient and traditional matter into something new, by using the iconic idea and the theme of "pearl" and by accentuating the visual and haptic qualities of mother of pearl. Now she makes “pearls” on her own, as the nature does.
Danni transfers the materials values both through the technical skills of her work, and through its characteristics of the created objects.
In her jewels a representation of the world emerges, where a dual category plays a fundamental role: the definite and the indefinite, the material and the immaterial, the organic and the inorganic.
The two forms look at each other and speak, vanish and complete themselves at the same time. Complementarity is a fundamental element of her creations, regarding both colour and shape.
The dialogue between geometry and materials is both sought after and desired.
Danni maintains a constant bond with the mother-of-pearl whilst also enjoying experimenting with other materials, to make sure that the contrast between the pure neutrality and brilliance of one, can converse with the hardness and density of the other.
Glazes and plastics, such as galalith - (from the Greek gala=milk, lithos=stone) a hard material manufactured from milk - and precious materials, are combined and associated while maintaining a structural uniformity.
The series of brooches called 'Organ', made in mother-of-pearl and galalith, is inspired by the shapes of the organs of the human body; the two subjects are compared while maintaining their defined identities, perhaps to further accentuate, through the contrast, the link between the organic nature of the material and the vitality of life itself.
A stunningly original result of long research and experimentation, which today achieves maturity and poise.
Danni Schwaag is a German based jewellery artist, living and working in Bremen /Germany.
After a trainee as a goldsmith she studied jewellery design in Idar-Oberstein from 2004-2008. in 2006 she spent an Erasmus year in Barcelona at the Escola Massana. One of the reasons was the material “enamel”. It has become a higher value in her work.
Danni started to combine the mother of pearl with the vitreous material - an organic one meets an industrial one. Danni's work is present in different international galleries.
In 2013 she won the Bremen advancement award for applied art.
Image Credits:
“Organ I”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, enamel on copper, silver, steel wire
50 x 70 mm
“Organ II”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, gold, steel wire
50 x 80 mm
“Organ III”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, enamel on copper, silver, steel wire
80 x 85 mm
“Organ IV”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, gold, steel wire
55 x 85 mm
“Organ V”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, enamel on copper, silver, steel wire
60 x 70 mm
“Organ VI”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, gold, steel wire
45 x 90 mm
“Organ VII”, Brooch, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, gold
80 x 60 mm
“Rose“, Earrings, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, gold
À 35 x 20 mm
“Turkis“, Earrings, 2017
Mother of pearl, galalith, gold
À 40 x 30 mm
Ear Jewellery, Untitled 06, 2018
Enamel on copper, mother of pearl, gold
Ear Jewellery, Untitled 07, 2013
Enamel on copper, mother of pearl, gold
Ear Jewellery, Untitled 01, 2018
Enamel on copper, mother of pearl, gold
Rings
Mother of pearl
Handshaped, Different sizes
About the Contributing Writer
Ilaria Ruggiero is a cultural manager and curator working in the field of contemporary art. She is the founder of Adornment - Curating Contemporary Art Jewelry, a curatorial integrated project dedicated to contemporary art jewelry. It aims to develop the knowledge and consciousness of contemporary jewelry as artistic discipline and as ground search for technique, aesthetics, and philosophy.
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