Q&A: Stephen M Goldsmith FIPG MBGG

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Stephen M Goldsmith FIPG MNGG KCHS is a precious metal polisher of high repute having worked in some of the most prestigious jewellery houses in the country. With some 45 years of experience as a craftsman in the jewellery and silversmithing industry, a former employee of the crown jewellers he has even worked in the Tower of London on the Crown Jewels. Starting out on a pre-apprentice course at Rochester, and then an apprenticeship, he can now be safely described as a Master Craftsman, and has just has his first book published, ‘Polishing and Finishing for Jewellers and Silversmiths’ which has already sold out and will be having a second print run this spring. Stephen is now a freelance polisher for the likes of Theo Fennell, has an array of international clientele, is a polishing skills trainer and a Fellow of the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths, informally known as the ‘Polishing Guru’. He answers the Benchpeg Q&A...

What’s your name, and what do you for a living?

SMG: Stephen M Goldsmith FIPG – MBGG, Precious metal polisher.

How did you come to work in the jewellery industry?

SMG: Like most people, I started off with school's careers advice and was asked what do I want to do? I answered a Cartoonist! You can imagine the look I received! "No way, too much competition and hard to get into, forget Disney all those dreams!"

I was arty and good at metalwork, and it so happened next door was the new Rochester College of Art and Design, so it was a no brainer for them to suggest the Pre Apprentice Course there. It lasted a year, a bit like the Foundation Course now at the Goldsmiths’ Centre, the one catch back then was if you entered an apprenticeship, it had to end by the time you were 21, This meant that you wouldn't have time for any A levels etc, I had to leave school at 15 and go straight into a year at college, then a 4 year apprenticeship in polishing silver with day release in silversmithing at Rochester once again, so it was all a bit of a rush to cram in. I ended up living in Islington Green so I could walk to Hatton Garden for work, so left home at 16 to pursue my dream of becoming a silver polisher, not everyone’s dream job I know, but once I got into the training I enjoyed it very much.

How would you describe your work to someone who doesn’t know it?

SMG:Very dirty, and can be quite dangerous using a 2hp machine with a rotating spindle with a tapered screw that goes around at nearly 3000 RPM using various tools, that spin and polish for a final mirror shine.

The upside is I get my hands on many famous trophies and polish some amazing creations, from the World’s best craftsmen. Now I get to pass on my knowledge to many students all over Europe and beyond.

What is your creative process?

SMG: I tend to rely on the designer or craftsman, I am working with, it’s their creation and I purely embellish to bring out the best that can ever be achieved.

That’s why I love working with Theo Fennell, he gives me a free reign to create completely different finishes, to make the most of his designs, I am not restricted to just a shine, if I did that it would be boring and like any other polisher, Theo encourages me to think outside the box.

Some people say I am not a polisher, more of an artist enhancing metal to bring out the best of the design.

Where do you love to shop?

SMG: H.S Walsh is simply the best service you can ever receive, really friendly and extremely helpful, it’s the one stop shop for me.

What is your inspiration?

SMG: Sculptural mainly, I get a kick out of Roman architecture and am absolutely amazed at their influence. I travel the World and just love Asia, I have visited Siem Reap in Cambodia a couple of times, my favourite place.

What piece of jewellery do you most treasure?

SMG: A silver chased bangle with gold grapes and vines, I had made for Ali, my wife.

What piece of jewellery do you most desire?

SMG: Rene Lalique Art Nouveau jewellery, which in some ways is the style of Theo Fennell, a design that lives forever.

Is there a seminal book or a favourite read that you have?

SMG: When I was younger I used to read Leon Uris but now Oliver Pötzsch.

"The Hangman’s Daughter Tale’s” is one of his books. The author himself is a descendant of one of Bavaria's leading dynasties of executioners.

Is there a particular tune, song or soundtrack to your life?

SMG: The 'Mission Impossible' movie theme, seems to suite my style, usually asked to create the impossible to strict deadlines, zooming around Europe like a mad man!

If you could only be remembered for one thing in your working life, what would it be?

SMG: The restoration of the Grand Punch Bowl in the Jewel House of the Tower of London. I was honoured to be able to restore this amazing creation, because I worked for Garrards, The Crown Jewellers at the time. It has influenced what I am today, The bowl had a 110 different models such as Bacchanalian Cherubs, Unicorns, Lions and Shell Fish above and below sea level, fire gilt and weighed 226 KG. It was so big you could have had a bath in it, made by John Bridge (1755-1834) Silversmith it took 10 years to make and was finished in 1830. It was then used for Royal Christenings, until Queen Victoria had a ladle made for it and it became the Grand Punch Bowl, the full story is in my book, but I was under armed guard in the Tower for 11 days whilst doing the job.

What would be your advice to someone starting out in the industry?

SMG: Start out much the same as I did, get a good basic training on a Foundation Course if possible and then an Apprenticeship with a good company that is connected to the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths’ as they will oversee your training to make sure you are not used as cheap labour.

Then only work with the best craftsmen you can find and it will rub off, surround yourself with the best and be the best!

The Benchpeg Proust Q&A

What’s your favourite work of art?
SMG: My favourite artist is Hieronymus Bosch who's work is very surreal much like Salvador Dali, it’s a crazy world separated by centuries. My favourite modern artist is Michael Godard much in the same vain, but I own some of his works of art and have actually met him too.
Who from past or present would you invite to a dinner party for the evening?

SMG: David Bowie, who's music was much like my favorite artworks, very surreal.
Do you have any pets, if yes, what is their name?
SMG: Coco & Fudge, my two Pugs. They are famous in their own right with a Twitter and Instagram following.
What is your most treasured possession?

SMG: A Tudor Rose Alms Dish, the first piece of silver I ever polished. The first day of my apprenticeship I was given a silver Tudor Rose Dish, and shown how to polish it, then once I got the hang of it was given 23 more, I certainly knew how to polish the dish after a few days. This is the beauty of the hallmark, I tracked down on eBay one of the first dishes I ever polished because of the date letter which was a “q” date, 1971 London - CJ Vander.
What would you consider a perfect day?

SMG: Watch the sun rise, with french pastries and expresso coffee to start, with a long walk in the country with my wife and pugs, polishing in the afternoon, then to finish the day in my favourite restaurant Reads of Faversham in Kent. Shame it’s not dog friendly, as that would really be my ultimate perfect day.
Is there a favourite journey, trip or voyage you hold dear?
SMG: Alaska was a great memory for me to be woken up by the crack of Muir Glacier, at 5am in the morning is unforgettable.
I was on the Island Princess cruise ship and we had our own balcony, I just heard the noise and was instantly outside with not much on, we sat outside drinking hot chocolate, looking at it, another perfect day.
What is your greatest achievement?

SMG: To be able to become an author, something I never thought would happen,
I have various ideas going around in my head for a novel, then I suddenly was asked to write a book about what I actually know about, polishing precious metals,
My book is called 'Polishing and Finishing for Jewellers and Silversmiths' published by Crowood Press. Its started to lovingly be called the “Polisher’s Bible”, and has turned into a best seller in trade terms, as no one has written a book on the subject before.
I was worried about being thrown out of the Magic Circle so to speak, but it seems to have been well received!
What advice would tell your younger self?

SMG: Try and soak up as much knowledge as you can from your elders, never be afraid to ask 'Why'?
Can you sum yourself up in one word?

SMG: Craftsman.
What motto do you live by?

SMG: You are very lucky if you find something in life you like to do and its a miracle if someone wants to pay you to do it!