John Donald (1928 -2023)

His contribution to jewellery design cannot be underestimated, from his mentoring of generations of apprentices to his innovative techniques and designs; some of which can be seen in the work of some jewellers at this week's Goldsmiths' Fair.

His work can be seen in the collections of The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths and the V&A amongst others, the former have 28 works by him in their collection.  13 pieces of his work commissioned by Princess Margaret, a major client, were auctioned by Christie's in 2006.  

One of the first designer goldsmiths to set up his own retail shops (three in London and at one time, one in Geneva).  John Donald realised that a shop front was vital in the days before the internet.  This is an illustration of the drive and entrepreneurial spirit that epitomises this master craftsman. 

John was given the opportunity to open a retail outlet in the City, this area was seen as too far from the West End. At the time, the idea that a designer should need his own shop was frowned upon, yet John was one of the first goldsmiths to return to Cheapside (in 1968), home to medieval goldsmiths from the 12th century. He was also the last to leave it. 

His legacy lives on in the fact that John Donald's designs were ahead of their time and therefore appear to be Contemporary. Many pieces are still retained by those that commissioned them and those that appear at auction are keenly followed. In his lavishly illustrated book 'Precious Statements (2015), the reader can see the breadth of his creative genius.

Our thoughts are with his family at this time.

Russell Cassleton Elliott

Image credits:

John Donald putting final touches to the bejewelled crown centrepiece of necklace. 1970

John Donald and HRH Princess Margaret at the opening of the Tecla Pearls exhibition in Bond Street, where HRH Princess Margaret was presented with a gold brooch set with pearls and diamonds. 1970

Brooch of 18ct yellow gold radiating square tubes covered with granulation and set with natural crystal of amethyst. 1963 (This piece is now in the V&A Jewellery Collection)

“This piece of honeycomb, in 18ct gold and set gold bee and Mexican fire opals as honey drops, was achieved after considerable effort. In theory casting from wax – the lost wax process – should be straightforward.  This process was successfully created by craftsmen several thousand years ago. For this honeycomb, it took two years of constant experimentation by me with my assistant in order to produce a satisfactory result.” 1972

Silver gilt brooch of round tubes cut at angles in leaf form, polished. 1961

18ct yellow gold open nugget flake ring set with baroque South Sea pearl, surrounded by pink and blue sapphires. 1992